Peak District Trek with an Old Friend

One of the first multi-day walking experiences I ever had, was hiking around the Cornish coast with my oldest friend when we were just sixteen. We were such novices. No real clue about navigation or about what we would need for the 150 mile journey, we took everything but the kitchen sink. However, that coastline tramp was the beginning of a love for walking and adventure that has stayed with me ever since. Over the years, we've tried to get away when we can to do various hikes and rambles. We don't live close to one another so any time we do get walking together is sporadic and precious. When messages between us began suggesting a 3 day walk across the Peak District, I couldn't contain my excitement!

The plan emerged that we would meet each other at the train station in the town of Uttoxeter, just south of the Peak District National Park. From there, we would walk to Rocester and follow the long distance footpath of the Limestone Way for the majority of the walk. We'd follow the Limestone Way for the most part and then vere off just before its end to walk to Edale, which would be our final destination and respective trains home. Adding a few points of interest to the walk and finding good spots to camp would bring the mileage for the 3 days up to a challenging 70 miles.



Firstly, we were extremely lucky with the weather. We were all set for the three days of rain that were forecast and brought the gear to handle it. As it happens, we barely saw any rain and I swear that I might have been slightly sunburnt! The temperature was perfect for walking and the ground, although very muddy, was soft at least. The first night we'd decided to wild camp at Dovedale. A place that I had visited when too young to remember and had been told how beautiful it was by several people. To get to Dovedale we would begin by crossing through ancient farmland and rolling hills. The landscape of the Peak District's White Peak - the southern half of the Peak District- is more gentle and less imposing than its rugged Millstone capped northern half. Progress was fairly quick on the first day and we arrived at the village of Thorpe, just south of Dovedale, a few hours ahead of schedule. We stopped at a pub in the village for a breather, a pint and to stock up on water. We then devised a plan of where to camp for the evening.



Looking at the map, we saw that in theory there should be plenty of places to camp for the evening if we walked through the valley of Dovedale and made our way to high ground.

Walking through Dovedale a couple of hours before sunset was an incredible experience. We walked upstream from the southern end of Dovedale and followed the River Dove past extraordinary limestone formation to an area at the top of the valley, called The Nabs. On a sunny summer day, I can imagine that Dovedale is packed with tourists. On an early April evening however, once we'd walked past the famous Dovedale stepping stones, we had the place to ourselves. Very quickly, you feel transported back in time. The deep gorge, thick with ancient Ash trees, feels like a place that hasn't changed for thousands of years. The clear stream and abundance of wildlife make me think of what Britain would of looked like in the times of the early Britons. Once we had made our way through the valley, we had a short but very steep climb up to our camping spot. Luckily, we found an area of flat ground very quickly. We pitched our tents overlooking one of the most stunning scenes I've seen in England. The sun set over the valley while we ate our dinner, looking out over the Derbyshire countryside.



The following day was a hard walk. We had a lot of miles to cover. It was 30 miles from our camp at Dovedale to the intended nights stay at Monyash. Setting of early would give us more time to make up the days mileage, but it was hard to leave such a beautiful spot. Knowing that we had to walk back along Dovedale was encouragement enough to get us going again however. The walk along the river was as peaceful and inspiring as the previous evening. To my delight, we saw a pair of Dippers out on the water hunting for food. They would dart backwards and forwards from their nest in a small cave on the rivers edge. Those birds must have the best piece of real estate in the country.



We got back onto the Limestone Way at the bottom of Dovedale and would follow the path for the rest of the day. As we pass through quiet hamlets and ancient farms, I'm in my element walking and joking with my oldest friend. In the busy lives we lead, its easy to lose touch with friends. Especially if they live far away, it becomes harder and harder to make the time to see one another. Our joint love of this most cost-effective and simple pastimes, has in some ways, held our friendship together. Its an excuse to meet up once a year and spend time making jokes and having a laugh. Walking provides the best platform for 'quality time'. It provides an opportunity for uninterrupted conversation, problem solving and exercising a level of trust in each other. I've yet to find an activity that can give as much as walking does.



Before arriving at our campsite in Monyash that evening, we would pass through some lovely landscapes. One of my favourite sections of the walk was along the River Bradford, which we met at the small town of Youlgreave. We were walking upstream, away from the town and following the crystal clear waters for a few miles. The river has a series of small weirs and stone bridges and would make a lovely short walk for anyone that happens to be in the area. There were many spots on this 3 day yomp that I'd love to go back to at some point. One that particularly sticks out in my mind is Lathkill Dale and Old Ash Grange Farm. The medieval farm of Old Ash Grange sits seemingly isolated atop of Lathkill Dale. As we approached the farm, there was an eerie mist that descended. Walking through the old farm buildings and past centuries old barns in a haze felt like passing through a film set. Being able to pass through working farms like Old Ash Grange Farm is one of the great things about walking in the U.K. Its easy to forget that its not the norm in many other countries.



We made it to our nights stay just before sunset and put up our tents in the last light of the day. I went to sleep under canvas looking forward to our final day in the Peaks. Tomorrow, we wouldn't have as many miles to cover but it would still be a challenging walk, with a lot of elevation and trains to catch at 2pm in Edale.

The final day took us into the Dark Peak area of the Peak District National Park. It has a different feel about it. More rugged and barren than its neighbour. We would also pass through the final dale on our walk, Miller's Dale. For anyone thinking of doing the Limestone Way, I should just mention that the route, although doesn't have you at dizzying altitudes, does have a lot of elevation. Going down into all the beautiful dales and valleys also requires you to climb your way back out again. Don't be fooled by the lack of trig points, as making your way out of these dales will provide plenty of inclines. We decided to end our final day in the Peak District however, with a final climb to the top of the iconic and ever popular Mam Tor.



After my friend and I had spent the last 3 days in relative isolation, it was a bit of a shock to the system as we found ourselves making our way to the top of Mam Tor with the crowds on a sunny Sunday afternoon. At 517m, Mam Tor isn't the highest hill in the area but the 360 degree views from the top are worth sharing with the many tourists and ramblers that congregate at its peak. Looking north from the summit is the small village of Edale and after we spend a few minutes admiring the views of the Kinder Scout plateau, we progress on the final few miles of our 3 day walk.



Looking back on our first hike together on the Cornish coast, I realise how influential that trip was for me. We were inexperienced and somehow simultaneously under and over prepared! Its clear to see with every passing year, how much more sensible and experienced in our choices of kit and organisation we are. One of the things that will always endure though, is our shared sense of adventure that I can't ever see changing.

On Foot Note

The Peak District is a stunningly wild and unique place. Here are some links that you might find both interesting and useful if you decide to visit or walk the Limestone Way.

Dovedale- National Trust

Mam Tor- National Trust

Old Ash Grange Farm- Monyash

LDWA- Limestone Way