Kinder Scout- Plateaus, Pedestrian Protestors and the Pennine Way

All photography by William Brodie 

Winding our way along the Hope valley early in the morning, the mist clung to the tops of the peaks as if to hide its secrets. I was heading to the trail head of a walk I'd wanted to do for sometime, with my oldest friend and fellow walking enthusiast. After arriving at the small village of Edale, we would leave the car and head up and into the veil of cloud to the highest point in Derbyshire- and also the East Midlands. Despite it's winning height, this isn't nearly the only reason why Kinder Scout drew us to it on a drizzly September morning.



The Kinder Scout plateau and its steep sided slopes were once the setting for a demonstration that helped open up the wild parts of Britain to the commoner, like you and I. Once, the uplands of England were only to be enjoyed by its wealthy land owners, many being used for hunting and farming. In April 1932 however, hundreds of ramblers- many workers from the surrounding industrial towns- made their way onto the moors at Kinder Scout. They were met with angry gamekeepers and within long, scuffles between the two ensued. On the way back from their mass trespass, 5 walkers were arrested for their interactions with the keepers. This act of protest is now known as the the 'Mass Trespass of Kinder Scout'. It marked the beginning of a struggle to give people the right to access open land and wild places like those at Kinder Scout. Some believe that this event was a contributing factor to the passage of the National Parks Legislation in 1949 and eventually, the Countryside Right of Way Act 2000 that we can all enjoy today.

For me, the walkers intentions were clear that day. They were sending out a message that access to wild places, wildlife and heritage are not a luxury afforded by few, but, a basic necessity and even a human right. I like to think, should I have been faced with the same scenario, I would have been stomping up the heather clad slopes along with them that day. To visit Kinder Scout, would be to pay homage to those who helped open up Britain for me.



We parked in Edale, a fitting place to start as its where my friend and I ended our last walk together. Parking at the train station in the village, we made our way past the church and to a footpath that would lead us through much of our days walk. For the most part we'd be following the Pennine Way. The 268 mile long distance trail starts right here and meanders its way to the Scottish border. An iconic route. Just another reason this place should be revered by ramblers.



We stopped for a moment to stare at the sign. No doubt, both thinking, 'I wonder if he wants to do the Pennine Way with me at some point?' ... 'We could manage that right?'. Today, however, would be a shorter, more modest venture into the uplands. Eagerly, we both began making our way along the path. Rising very gradually and passing through fields of sheep and gates in dry stone walls. While Kinder Scout hid stubbornly behind cloud, Mam Tor to the South was visible and free from fog. The views along the valley were everything I'd hoped them to be. Timeless and rugged. The reason people will always visit the Peak District.



We were making our way to Jacob's Ladder, which would mark our ascent into the uplands. Jacob's Ladder is a series of steps that were made by Jacob Marshall, who farmed the area in the 1800's. Its a lovely (although steep) climb up the stone steps onto the Kinder Scout Plateau. With each step, the views got more and more impressive when we stopped to look behind us. Somewhere on the ascent, we lost the visibility as we passed into another world. We stepped onto the uplands and into the clouds. Up here, things were harder going. A place less forgiving and wilder than the gentler scene below. A place less uniformed and quaint, but still managed and manicured nonetheless.



The Peaks are a landscape that may look timeless, but they have been fashioned and tailored by man. Thousands of years ago, our ancestors began clearing the woodland on these peaks and grazing their animals. This still continues. These wild and forbidding places are kept by the farmers, gamekeepers and the sheep that graze it. Walking the uplands of the Peak District is to peer into the landscape of our ancestors.



Once we were on the plateau, the visibility was reduced to tens of metres. Instead of sweeping views, gritstone rock formations and lone, hardy sheep would gradually reveal themselves as we trod through the mist. To some, this would be a disappointment, most people climb up hills and mountains for the view as a kind of reward. We, however, found the uplands exactly as we wanted them. We didn't come to the Peak District for sunshine, that would be like going to a night club and expecting peace and quiet. No, we wanted wild weather to match this wild and mysterious place. The mist just added to evocativeness of the moor. 


 

We continued along the Pennine Way. Crossing the boulder strewn plateau to Kinder Downfall, a waterfall that was formerly known as Kinder Scut, giving its name to the area. It's the tallest waterfall in the Peak District National Park, but unfortunately today it was hidden from view- ironically from the rain and mist that make it so impressive.



This would be where our route diverted from the Pennine Way and onto the more challenging moor. In poor visibility, Kinder Scout can easily disorientate even the most experienced walker. Our route back to Edale would take us along river beds and across open moorland. The compass made its appearance on this section, as to make sure that we were heading in the right direction. Its astonishingly easy to go around in circles in a featureless landscape like the moors. Checking the GPS unit frequently until we popped out at the footpath that would gradually lead us back to Edale. Our descent from the opaque uplands would be via Grindsbrook Clough, a steep and rocky route down into the village. I particularly enjoyed this rocky section, it was a nice contrast to the rest of the walk. It was great to be climbing down boulders with the brook running by our sides. Hands on rock as we picked our route descent. If your looking for an easy, but fun scramble, then this would be a great way up onto the Kinder Scout plateau.



The boulders begin to get smaller as we descend the cascade of rock, until eventually turning into a footpath as we appear back out of the clouds. Now out of the uplands, the rain retreated and Derbyshire appeared again. Just a short amble in Edale now.

Its an incredible place up on Kinder Scout. In fact, any heather moorland is special. Its rarer than rain forest and almost 70% of the worlds amount is found in Britain. It tells the story of our ancestors and harbours spectacular and rare wildlife. Unlike those trespassers in 1932, we can explore them unchallenged and at our leisure. I'd urge anyone to exercise their right to visit these places, and a good place to start would be Kinder Scout.

On Foot Note 

- Osmaps Route

- Pennine Way 

- Peak District National Park