Lake District (Day 3)- Helvellyn via Striding Edge

I woke knowing that I had a great day ahead. After spending a glorious few days in the Lakes, today would be my final day. It was on yet another warm morning that I found myself driving along the Fjiord-like shores of Ullswater, to the start of my walk at the village of Glenridding. Parking my car at the information centre in the village, I set off on Britain's favourite walk.

Yes, Helvellyn was recently voted as number one on ITV's Britain's Favourite Walks, in which Julia Bradbury and friends showcased the top 100 walks in the land. Having never gone up Helvellyn before, I was interested to see whether the 3rd highest mountain in England deserved this new accolade. I can't imagine that one walk could beat all other walks, but I'm always happy to be proven wrong.



Following Glenridding Beck upstream from the village, I follow the sign posts for Helvellyn. Its quite easy for those who have never been before to quickly find where to go- but of course I would always advise having a map close at hand. After following the footpath past the camp ground, the route turns away from the river and begins to climb.

 

The initial climb on this walk is quite steep. You gradually make your way up to the raised grassy lookout of Birkhouse Moor, climbing for over a mile and a half. But, as always with steep ascents, altitude brings rapidly changing views. The view back towards Glenridding was getting more exquisite by the minute. The village sat snuggly, penned in by fells and water. Ullswater snaked its way into the distance, and with each step I could see more and more of it. Even if Helvellyn doesn't become my favourite walk, I think Ullswater might now be my favourite lake!

The next section had me walking funny. After climbing for nearly two miles, I was now treated to the strange feeling of walking on the flat. The sudden gradient change made me look like I'd stopped for a few pints before I started my walk! However, it wouldn't be long before my legs would be back to normal. Or at least I hoped so. I still had a hair raising traverse to contend with and I hoped to be in full control of my limbs for it! Half a mile on the flat would lead me to a little place called 'Hole-In-The-Wall'. This small gap in a dry stone wall would mark the beginning of a section that would again leave my legs feeling like jelly, but not for the same reasons.



Todays excursion would take in Helvellyn via its most famous (and sobering) ridge walk, Striding Edge. Firstly though, I had a short walk along a more rounded ridge to build up my courage. This also gave me the chance to take in the view of Helvellyn without fearing for my life at the same time. Helvellyn, or rather the Helvellyn Range feels shut off from the rest of the Lakes. Unlike the Southern Fells where the closest mountain feels as high as the one you're on. Helvellyn gives the first impression that its the biggest thing around. A real centre of attention. It has good reason to show off too. With a sweeping horseshoe of rock surrounding the stunning Red Tarn, and Helvellyn summit proper flanked by the sizeable tops of Nethermost Pike and Catsye Cam, it has a lot to shout about. The razor-like arête of Striding Edge started to creep into view and I knew I'd have to stop ogling the mountain and concentrate where I'd be putting my feet on this tricky traverse.



From where I'm stood, I can see the summit. It seems close. I suppose it is, as the crow flies. But I wouldn't be going as the crow flies, I'd be hesitantly scrambling my way over Striding Edge. More like a mountain goat maybe? Herdwick sheep perhaps? A grade 1 scramble, Striding Edge isn't technical. Its not so much about ability, as nerves. Of course, you do have to think about where you're putting your feet and think ahead slightly, but its the exposure that's the real challenge. Uncomfortable drops either side, with less than soft landings, keep the heartbeat raised and give a very real sense of danger. Although there are sections in which you climb, the hardest sections were the parts in which you descend. For some reason it seems harder to climb down than up. Perhaps its the fact that you're forced to look down at the situation you've put yourself in? There are options along Striding Edge where you can opt for the easier route. However, to save the erosion of the mountain- and for your own excitement- I'd try and walk the rocky tightrope to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last section of the scramble. Its a satisfying section of rock with a series of lovely steps and easy holds, before popping out close to Helvellyn's summit.



At the summit, the prize for your efforts is the view to the west. Obscured from view when climbing
via the east, an inspiring picture of the Central and Southern Fells appears on reaching the crest. As well as heart achingly beautiful views, a sense of accomplishment met me at the top too. A lady sat at the summit shelter asked me excitedly 'Have you come up by Striding Edge?'. When I responded gormlessly 'Errr yeah', and she looked markedly impressed, I remembered that I'd just ticked off a ridge walk that's famous in its own right. Not to mention, a bucket list walk that can now be ticked off. Okay, so its not the Hillary Step on Everest or anything, but I'd consider it an achievement nonetheless.



Swirral Edge would be my way down. I was extremely relieved to find that it wasn't nearly as exposed as its neighbour, Striding Edge. I thought to myself as I descended, that Swirral Edge would be a great way up Helvellyn for those who don't fancy as much exposure or scrambling, but want an interesting way up that has chances to get your hands on the mountain. The footpath led me past the turn off for the summit of Catstye Cam and towards the edge of Red Tarn. It was really tempting to vere left and take the path up to another Wainwright. But,  I knew I had to get back to my car and make the long drive back home. So, Catstye Cam will have to wait for another time.

Past the tarn, the path meets up with the one I took up and I head back down the way I came. Again, with the views of Ullswater and Glenridding. Later on in the morning now, the walkers and tourists were now making their way up to Helvellyn. Maybe all going to see what all the fuss is about. Solo walkers, families and couples of all ages were doing the climb to Helvellyn's summit that day. It occurred to me as I came into Glenridding and collected my car, why this walk may be Britain's favourite. Although I'd enjoyed every minute and the views were second to none, I could say the same for many walks I've done. No, I think its because it has something for everyone. It has the adrenaline of Striding Edge and the more accessible scramble of Swirral Edge. You can even come from the west of the mountain and take the shortest route to the top. Walkers can get to the top of the 3rd highest mountain in whatever fashion they'd like to. Not the best walk in Britain, but there's no reason it can't be.

On Foot Note

OSMaps Route

Walklakes.co.uk- Striding Edge and Swirral Edge

BMC- Striding Edge

BMC- Striding Edge Video